Warning:
It is illegal to make copies of copyrighted material, such as Magic the Gathering cards, and other such playing cards.
The fines for violating a copyright is $250,000.00 per incident.
Don't even consider making foil moxes, etc. and selling them on Ebay.

This has been a fun hobby for me, but my free time has become short and responsibilities take me elsewhere.

I was fortunate enough to create eight foil Mox Crystals for the 2004 five color worlds top eight prizes. For this I have a reverse printed foil mox crystal for my own deck. Other than that, and making a few cards for friends, not much of anything has come of the technology I developed for making personal foils.

Supplies:
Foil holographic wrapping paper.
Ink roller (clean)
3M Adhesive (permanent)
Krylon clear glossy.
150 grit sanding block
Exacto Knife
Small sponge
Ink Jet Printer
Scanner
Hammer Mill window decal material or Testor's model decal paper. Both of these come as 8 1/2 x 11 in. sheets.

Preparing the foil:
making the foil base is the same regardless of which method you use for applying the artwork.

The best material I have found for creating the holographic foil is Rainbow holographic wrapping paper. It is available from HyGloss, it is their rainbow holographic wrapping paper (they have other holographics, you want the rainbow style.)
http://www.hygloss.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=38/index.html

This paper is destroyed by finger prints, so don't touch the surface.

Lay the paper out on a nonabrasive surface. I use a bath towel on a ping pong table.

Most people have ton's of commons from any particular card game they play. Pick out mint condition commons you can throw away.

Spray the face of the cards with 3M permanent adhesive. A good coat is needed, you don't want separation later.
Lay the cards onto the back of the paper and press firmly. Allow five minutes to dry. Cut and trim the cards.

Making the card:

Whether you use CCG Make to create your own card, or scan the card, you are going to ink jet print the card. Get a good printer with a high output resolution. Scan the card at least 600 DPI.

Easy:

The easy way is to walk into Staples and buy Ink Jet printer Window decals by HammerMill.
Print your card images on the decal material, allow to dry over night.

Spray coat your decal paper with a clear glossy sealant, Krylon clear,glossy is good.

Spray the foil face of your card with 3M Adhesive, You can skip this step, because the window decal material has a light adhesive on it already, but you really want to blur the foil a little bit with the adhesive. This actually makes the card look less dark.

Lay your artwork face down on a white piece of paper on a flat clean surface.

Carefully lay the card down onto the artwork. I always start at the bottom and roll the card onto the art with the ink roller.
It is very important not to let bubbles get into the artwork, and at the same time, hard to avoid. This is the easy way, not the best way.

Trim your card. Sand the edges of the card with the sanding block. Always sand from the face toward the back. Sanding the other way will catch the edge of the decal and pull it up, ruining the card. Also, you want to bevel the edges inward slightly to prevent peeling.

Play the card in a sleeve.

Hard way:
This method uses ultra thin model decal paper from Testors and gives stunning results. Buy the clear, not the white backed paper.

Flip your card image left to right. You are going to print on the face of the paper, and the glue that side to the card.
I forgot to do this on my first batch of Mox Crystals, which is why I have one that is reversed.
Be sure and print several copies of the card on each sheet of paper. You will need them.

Allow the print out to dry over night or it will bleed. Cut our your card images leaving a 1/4 inch border around the artwork where you can.

Spray the foil face of the card with 3M adhesive. Carefully lay the card down onto the artwork, rolling the card down with the ink roller.
This is the best way to apply it and very rarely leaves bubbles.

The model decal label is paper backed. Don't even think of following Testor's instructions.

Carefully trim the excess model decal paper to almost match the edges of the card. Don't worry about rounding the corners or getting it exact.

Lay the card face down on a paper towel, clean and a flat clean surface. Dampen a sponge, and dab at the paper back of the decal. You need to get it wet so that it starts to show clear. This is a slow process, if you put too much water on the paper, it will seep onto the face of the image and ruin it.
Take is slow, but be thorough, the entire back must be wet! When you have the paper wet enough, you can slide the paper off of the top of your card. Slide it slowly but firmly. If the paper is not wet enough the very thin fill will stretch and the card is trash.. If you pull upward on the paper backing the film will separate from the foil surface and the card is trash. Did I mention this is the hard way?

After the paper is off and the card is still looking good, gently wipe the face of the card with the damp sponge. The actual printing is underneath a thin layer of waterproof film. However, this film has a glue on top which must be wiped off. or it will dry sticky and .... trash the card.

The final step is to gently sand the edges of the card. Always have the card face up and sand downward. Sand all the way around the edge of the card. This is how you do the final trimming.

The really really hard way: (or how to partially foil a card!)

Print a copy of your card on the HammerMill label paper.
Apply the decal to the face of a card sleeve.
Put a card in the sleeve that you don't want.
Using an exacto knife, cut out areas on the decal and the underlying sleeve face that you want to be un-foiled.
In my case, I cut out the image of the Mox Crystal, so that the area around the crystal will be foil, but not the crystal itself.

Your sleeve is now a stencil.
Put a foiled card into the sleeve.
Spray white paint onto your stencil.
Remove the card and apply the artwork.